A trolley jack can lift a car in seconds. That does not make it safe to work beneath. Knowing how to safely raise a car with a jack and axle stands is a basic workshop skill, whether you are changing oil, inspecting brakes or carrying out a bigger repair. The rule is simple: the jack lifts the vehicle, but properly rated axle stands support it.
A rushed setup, unsuitable ground or one missed lifting point can turn a routine job into a serious accident. Take the extra few minutes to prepare the vehicle, use equipment with the right capacity and lower the weight securely on to the stands before any work begins.
Start with the right lifting equipment
Use a quality trolley jack and a matched pair of axle stands rated for more than the vehicle’s weight. Check the vehicle’s kerb weight on the manufacturer’s plate, handbook or specifications, then allow a sensible margin. For most cars, a 2-tonne trolley jack and 3-tonne axle stands are a practical starting point, but larger SUVs, vans and electric vehicles may require heavier-duty equipment.
The rating on a pair of axle stands generally refers to their combined capacity. Even so, do not work close to the limit. A solid, wide-based stand with a locking pin or positive ratchet lock gives better confidence than light, narrow units intended only for occasional use.
Before lifting, inspect every item. The jack should roll smoothly, raise without jerking and show no hydraulic oil leaks. Check that axle stand saddles are not bent, feet sit flat and locking mechanisms engage fully. Do not use damaged, corroded or improvised lifting equipment. Bricks, timber off-cuts, concrete blocks and stacks of wheels are not substitutes for axle stands.
For a safe setup, have the following ready:
- A trolley jack with enough lifting capacity and reach for the vehicle
- A pair of correctly rated axle stands
- Wheel chocks for the wheels staying on the ground
- The vehicle handbook or workshop information for approved lifting points
- A torch and gloves, particularly when working underneath older vehicles
A low-profile jack is often necessary for lowered cars, while a rubber jack pad can protect painted pinch welds. The pad must fit securely and must not make the jack saddle unstable.
Choose level ground before you lift
Lift only on firm, level concrete or another hard, stable surface. A garage floor or sound driveway is suitable. Gravel, block paving that moves, soft tarmac, wet grass and a sloping drive are not. Under load, a trolley jack can sink, roll or shift. An axle stand can do the same, even when it initially appears stable.
Put the car in first gear or reverse if it has a manual gearbox. Put an automatic in Park. Apply the handbrake firmly, then chock the wheels that will remain on the ground. If you are lifting the front, chock both rear wheels. If lifting the rear, chock both front wheels. Chocks should be placed tight against the tyre, not loosely nearby.
Switch off the engine and remove the key or keep the key safely out of reach. Make sure nobody can enter the vehicle, release the handbrake or operate the controls while it is raised. If working on an electric or hybrid vehicle, follow the manufacturer’s guidance for jacking points and avoid any area around the high-voltage battery casing or orange cables.
Find the correct jacking and support points
This is where many home repairs go wrong. Modern cars commonly have reinforced pinch welds along the sill, marked by small notches or arrows. These points are designed for the vehicle’s supplied emergency jack, and some can also be used with a trolley jack using a proper slotted rubber pad.
For lifting an entire front or rear end, many vehicles have a central jacking point on the subframe, crossmember or differential housing. However, this varies by model. Never assume a component is strong enough because it looks substantial. Thin floor pans, plastic undertrays, suspension arms, exhaust parts and battery trays can be crushed or damaged.
Your handbook identifies approved points. A model-specific workshop manual is even better, particularly where a car has an undertray or sealed battery pack. Once raised, position axle stands under the manufacturer-approved support points. On many cars, these are reinforced areas near the sill; on others, they are designated subframe locations.
Do not place stands under the floor pan, fuel tank, anti-roll bar, steering rack, driveshafts or suspension components unless the manufacturer specifically permits it. On rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the differential may be suitable for lifting but not necessarily for long-term support. Check before committing the vehicle’s weight to it.
How to safely raise a car with a jack and axle stands
Begin with the wheels still on the ground and all wheel nuts cracked loose if you are removing a wheel. Do this before lifting, using a breaker bar if needed. Trying to loosen tight wheel bolts while the tyre is in the air can rock the vehicle on the stands.
Position the trolley jack squarely beneath the correct central or corner jacking point. Ensure the saddle is centred, then pump the handle steadily. Watch the contact point as the vehicle begins to rise. Stop immediately if the jack pad slips, the bodywork flexes unusually or the jack starts to lean.
Raise the car only as high as necessary. Excessive height adds instability and makes the job harder. With the vehicle high enough, set the two axle stands to exactly the same height and position them under the approved support points. Keep both stands upright with their feet fully on the ground.
Lower the jack slowly and smoothly until the vehicle settles into the saddles of both stands. Look at each contact point closely. The stand saddle should sit centrally on solid metal, not on a curved edge, seam lip or plastic trim. Once the full weight is on the stands, leave the trolley jack lightly touching its lifting point as an additional backup where space allows. It is not a replacement for the stands.
With the car supported, give the body a firm, controlled push from the side. You are checking for movement, not trying to shake it off the stands. If there is any rocking, stand movement or uncertainty, raise the car again and reset the setup. Never crawl underneath to investigate an unstable vehicle.
When only one end of the car is raised, remember that the other wheels remain on the ground. The handbrake and wheel chocks are still essential. For jobs requiring all four wheels off the floor, use four suitably rated stands and follow the manufacturer’s lifting sequence. This is more involved than lifting one end and should never be rushed.
Common lifting mistakes that cost more than time
The most dangerous mistake is working under a vehicle held only by a hydraulic jack. Hydraulic seals can fail without warning, and a jack can roll as the suspension moves. A trolley jack is a lifting tool, not a support stand.
Another common error is lifting on uneven ground or using a single stand beneath one side of the car. Vehicles must be supported evenly, using a pair of stands at the same height. A car can twist or slip if one corner is taking most of the load.
Avoid placing timber, paving slabs or metal plates under stands unless they are purpose-designed, strong enough and completely stable. A thick steel spreader plate may be appropriate in a professional setting on a known surface, but improvised materials tend to split, tilt or crush. On soft ground, the correct answer is to move the vehicle to a hard surface.
Also consider vehicle-specific systems. Air suspension can self-level or change height if the system is not placed in jack mode. Some EVs have strict lift-point requirements due to battery placement. Performance cars may have carbon fibre undertrays or very low sills that need specialist pads and lifting equipment.
Lower the vehicle with the same care
Clear tools, parts and people from beneath the vehicle before lowering it. Refit wheels and tighten wheel bolts lightly while the car is still raised, but apply final torque only with the tyres back on the ground, using the manufacturer’s specification.
Raise the vehicle just enough to take the weight off the axle stands. Remove the stands one at a time, keeping hands and feet clear. Then lower the trolley jack slowly until all tyres are firmly on the ground. Remove the chocks only once the job is complete.
Check wheel bolt torque after any wheel removal, and check fluid levels or brake pedal feel before driving if your repair involved braking components. A safe lift is only one part of a safe repair.
Reliable lifting equipment is affordable compared with the cost of damaged sills, broken components or an avoidable injury. For regular garage work, choose a strong trolley jack, correctly rated axle stands and proper wheel chocks, then make the same careful setup part of every job.
