A trolley jack gets the car into the air. Axle stands are what keep it there. Knowing how to use axle stands properly is non-negotiable when you are changing brakes, inspecting suspension, servicing underneath the vehicle or dealing with exhaust work. A car can cause serious injury in seconds if it slips, rolls or is supported in the wrong place.
The job is straightforward when the ground is level, the stands are rated correctly and every contact point is checked before you go underneath. Rushing this part of a repair is false economy.
Choose axle stands that suit the vehicle
Start with the load rating. Axle stands are commonly sold and rated as a pair, but always read the label, instructions and markings on the actual product. The combined rating must comfortably exceed the vehicle weight being supported. Do not guess from the size of the car or assume a larger-looking stand is automatically stronger.
For many cars, a 2-tonne pair may be suitable for supporting one end during routine work. A heavier 3-tonne or 6-tonne set gives more capacity and often a wider, more stable base for vans, 4x4s and heavier workshop use. The correct choice depends on the vehicle weight, how much of it is being lifted and where the stands will be positioned.
Look for stands with a broad steel base, a positive locking mechanism and a saddle that will sit securely beneath the vehicle. Ratchet-style stands are quick to adjust, while pin-type stands use a steel retaining pin. Both can be safe when they are in good condition and used as intended. Check that ratchet teeth are clean, pins are not bent and welds, feet and saddles show no cracks or distortion.
Never use damaged axle stands, improvised blocks, timber offcuts, bricks or stacks of paving slabs as a substitute. They are not designed for the point loads and movement involved in vehicle lifting.
Prepare the area before lifting
Axle stands need a hard, flat and stable surface. A concrete garage floor or level driveway is suitable. Loose gravel, soil, sloping paving, wet grass and uneven tarmac are not. A stand can sink or tilt even if the lift initially looks secure.
Put the gearbox in first gear or reverse on a manual vehicle, or Park on an automatic. Apply the handbrake firmly. If you are lifting the front of the vehicle, chock both rear wheels. If you are lifting the rear, chock both front wheels. Use purpose-made wheel chocks where possible, positioned firmly against the tyre.
Before reaching for the jack, identify the proper lifting and support points. The vehicle handbook is the best source, especially on newer cars with undertrays, battery packs, plastic sill covers or reinforced jacking points. Many vehicles have marked sill pinch-weld points for the jack, but these may not be the best place to rest an axle stand once the jack needs to be removed.
On many rear-wheel-drive vehicles, strong support points include the axle tubes close to the spring mounts or manufacturer-approved areas of the chassis. At the front, suitable points may include a front subframe crossmember or designated chassis locations. It depends entirely on the vehicle. Do not support a car under the floorpan, fuel tank, steering arms, anti-roll bar, exhaust, suspension arm unless approved, or a thin section of the sill.
How to use axle stands step by step
Set the trolley jack under the approved central jacking point or one of the designated lift points. Make sure its wheels can roll slightly as the suspension rises. A jack that cannot move when needed can pull at an angle and destabilise the lift.
Raise the vehicle slowly. Keep an eye on the jack saddle, the vehicle body and the tyres as they leave the ground. Stop immediately if the saddle starts to move, the vehicle lifts unevenly or you hear unusual cracking from a support point.
Once there is enough clearance, position the axle stands beneath the approved support points. For a front-end lift, place the pair evenly left and right at matching structural points. Set both stands to the same height where the vehicle design allows it. Their bases should sit flat, with the saddles centred directly beneath solid metal.
Raise each stand’s centre post fully into the locking position. With ratchet stands, listen and look for the pawl engaging the teeth securely. With pin stands, pass the pin completely through the aligned holes and fit its retaining clip if supplied. Do not rely on friction, partial engagement or a loose pin.
Now lower the trolley jack slowly until the vehicle weight settles onto both stands. Do not drop it down quickly. Watch each saddle as the load transfers. The car should sit squarely, without a stand leaning, twisting or moving across the floor.
Leave the jack raised lightly under its lifting point where practical, but do not treat it as the primary support. The axle stands must carry the vehicle independently. A hydraulic jack can lose pressure, leak or be knocked out of position.
Check stability before going underneath
With the vehicle on the stands, carry out a deliberate stability check. Grip a secure part of the body or tyre and give the vehicle a firm push from the side and front to back. You are not trying to rock it off the stands. You are checking for movement, shifting saddles or a stand that is not seated evenly.
If it moves, stop. Raise the vehicle again with the jack, reposition the stands and repeat the check. Never try to kick a stand into line or slide it while it is loaded.
It is good workshop practice to place the removed wheels flat under the sill area as a secondary precaution, provided they do not interfere with the stands or the repair. This is not a replacement for correctly rated axle stands. It simply offers extra clearance should something go wrong.
Keep people, pets and unnecessary tools away from the vehicle while it is raised. Do not allow anyone to sit in the car, open and slam doors, or work on one corner in a way that could create excessive side load. Be particularly cautious with seized bolts, heavy impacts and jobs that require force under the vehicle. If a fastener needs serious leverage, reassess your body position and make sure the car cannot move before applying it.
Common axle stand mistakes to avoid
The most dangerous mistake is working beneath a vehicle supported only by a trolley jack. Even a high-quality jack is a lifting device, not a long-term support. Hydraulic seals can fail without warning, and a jack can roll or tilt if the load changes.
Another common error is placing the stand under a convenient-looking component rather than a structural support point. Modern vehicle undersides are crowded with covers, wiring, brake lines and lightweight suspension parts. The wrong location can damage the car or allow it to slip.
Avoid lifting on a slope, even a small one. The vehicle can roll as the tyres leave the ground, and the stands may no longer be vertical when the load transfers. Also avoid mixing stands of different heights, designs or ratings on the same end of a vehicle unless the manufacturer specifically permits it. A matched pair gives predictable support and load sharing.
Finally, do not exceed the stand rating or assume it applies to every arrangement. Supporting a complete vehicle on four stands requires careful planning, four correctly rated supports and approved points at every corner. For many home jobs, lifting one end at a time is simpler and safer.
Lower the vehicle with the same care
When the work is complete, clear tools, creepers and parts from underneath. Refit wheels if they were removed and tighten wheel nuts enough to hold the wheel safely before lowering. Raise the vehicle slightly with the trolley jack until the stands are no longer carrying weight.
Remove the stands one at a time, keeping hands and feet clear of pinch points. Then lower the vehicle slowly onto the ground. Once the tyres are fully loaded, remove the wheel chocks and torque wheel nuts to the vehicle manufacturer’s specification if wheels have been refitted.
For affordable, reliable workshop lifting equipment, Irish Tools Shop stocks axle stands and trolley jacks suited to serious DIY and professional garage work. Match the capacity to the job, inspect the equipment before every use and never compromise on the ground beneath it. If the car does not feel completely stable, lower it and start the setup again.
